"A New York Treasure" --Village Voice

Taster’s Cherce

Sometimes the simplest thing on the menu is the most intriguing.

My wife and I celebrated our fifth anniversary at Manzo recently. It was our first time at Eataly and we drove ourselves into a ravenous state walking around the market for 30 minutes before our meal. The menu – a fantastic menu for me – swirled before my eyes as every choice seemed better than the one next to it.

I skimmed right past something called ‘tajarin al sugo d’arrosto.’ It was a pasta, though beyond that I had no idea, and I was busy reading menu items which contained words I understood. I got to the end and started to think about my order when I noticed that the last page of the menu contained a glossary of terms.

Tajarin al sugo d’arrosto is a simple dish, ribbons of egg-flour pasta in a light sauce made from the juices of the roast meats. Manzo being a meat place, they have a lot of that juice to go around.

It occurred to me that I rarely order something with such a bare menu description. But the idea of it wormed into my brain and I couldn’t shake it. I asked the waiter to give me his take, ala Alex Belth, and he was a brilliant salesman. He gave me the Indiana Jones “you’ve-chosen-wisely” vibe which made me proud for an instant before I realized I was such an easy mark.

We ordered a lot of incredible dishes, but a week later, I’m still thinking about the tajarin. Still wishing there was one more chunk of bread to wipe in the sauce.

Here’s an attempt to reverse-engineer the recipe, though they have used a different pasta from the one I’m pining for.

5 comments

1 Alex Belth   ~  Aug 19, 2011 11:55 am

Dag, man, that dish sounds divine.

2 RIYank   ~  Aug 19, 2011 12:35 pm

Hey, I didn't read the by-line and thought I was reading an AB entry until I got to the end and saw [1].

I'm a total sucker for that waiter line too, Jon. The dish sounds delectable. Tajarin is fettuccini but yolkier, so maybe you could just substitute egg noodles? Or make your own!

3 Sliced Bread   ~  Aug 19, 2011 12:59 pm

see I know just enough Italian to get myself in trouble. I read 'arrosto' and thought lobster which is 'arragosto.' Unrefined fools like me are the ones who pour a glass of wine on their salad, and sip at the red vinegar.

4 Chyll Will   ~  Aug 19, 2011 1:20 pm

[3] Hey man, let's go get a slice of NY pizza and peg tourists with wasabi!

5 herbiespaghetti   ~  Aug 22, 2011 12:42 pm

Hey Jon - thanks for the link to our attempt to recreate this at home! Gosh I miss the real thing... Manzo does such an awesome job with this dish. I'll have to go back there soon.

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