I made this over the weekend and loved it.
This version of the recipe is slightly different from the one in her cookbook but it’ll do the trick (in her book she calls for two tablespoons of maldon salt and I think one, as it is listed here, is fine). I added some hot pepper flakes at the end, too. Dag, it was tasty.
[Photo Credit: James Ransom]
Saturday morning I’m in a dentist office on the east side flipping through the pages of New York Magazine when I see a blurb on Maison Kayser a newly-opened bakery on the Upper East Side. It is the 80th location of the bakery worldwide but the first in the States. So when I finished the appointment I paid a visit, bought a baguette, a sugar brioche, and a pain au chocolat. They were all wonderful so I went back yesterday with my sister and The Wife for brunch.
My sister, whose been to Paris many times, walked in and said, “It smells right.”
We were in heaven. Maison Keyser is a bakery and a sit down restaurant. They are still getting their bearings in terms of service but nothing was egregiously bad and here’s the beauty part…I recognized a blond haired woman from the day before. She’d been working behind the cash register in the bakery, was friendly and had an open face. Her name is Marine. I introduced her to my sister and The Wife and she asked us if we’d tried the white chocolate brioche (I think it’s called a Vin Blanc, but I could be wrong). We had not and she brought us one and explained that it is from Lyon, where she is from, a combination of a baguette and brioche.
We flipped over it and for $4.95 it might be one of the best greatest values bite-for-bite in the city. We wouldn’t have tried it if Marine didn’t offer us a sample. Eric Kayser’s breads and pastries are reason enough to trek over to the east side but he’s fortunate to have someone like Marine working for him. She took great pride in their food and was eager to share it. It’s that kind of care, warmth, and attentiveness that will keep us coming back.
I’ve made April Bloomfield’s Skirt Steak Salad twice recently and man, it’s a sure shot. I couldn’t find watercress so I used cilantro and mint instead. Here’s the recipe. And dig this demonstration.
We interrupt Peach Week to rave about Andrew Whitney’s cooking over at Dell’Anima.
The bruschette is lovely, especially the roasted red peppers with smoked almonds but the Bone Marrow with testa, charred cippolini, pickled red onion, mustard vinaigrette is off the chain. Alone, it is worth the trip.
Yes, the pastas are satisfying, too. The vibe is cozier than L’Artusi, the menu more daring, but both places are spots I want to visit again and again (this coming from someone who doesn’t eat Italian out often). I like sitting at the bar and watching the cooks in action.
And for dessert, treat yourself to the espresso-rum almond cake.
You won’t be sorry.
Over at Food and Wine, Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert break it down…like this:
Fancy Chefs Making Burgers
AB: I understand this trend. It’s dismaying, but I completely understand the impulse. What chef wants to die broke? And let’s face it: Burgers are good. But it is definitely a little dismaying, any time you see really great chefs cooking below their abilities by putting out a burger.
ER: A burger is part of the menu at our Westend Bistro in Washington, DC. Our burger was actually inspired by McDonald’s—except for the quality of the meat, of course. A McDonald’s bun is perfect. You put it in your hands; it’s not too big, it’s not too tall. The ratios, the slice of tomato—for some reason, it’s all perfect. The pickles are perfect. The shredded salad, it’s not too much, not too little. When we did our burger, for us, it was a very interesting research project. We looked at companies like McDonald’s and Burger King and thought, What is great in their approach? And how can we make it great with the meat that we have, which is, obviously, of different quality?
[Photo Via: Gourmet]
Our man Ted Berg brings it in the latest edition of “The Sandwich Show”:
I’ve talked about Bucatini All’Amatriciana many times before. It’s my go-to meal, a signature dish in Rome (or just outside of Rome). It’s simple: bacon (or, in Rome, Guanciale), onions, hot pepper flakes, olive oil and tomatoes. Served with bucatini, the long pasta with a hole in the middle.
There are many variations on this theme and just as many arguments about the proper way to make the dish. Marcella Hazen doesn’t use olive oil, she uses butter and vegetable oil. Some people add garlic. Lydia Bastianich cooks the onions in pasta water first and once they are softened she adds the oil. Everyone is convinced their way is the correct way.
Anyhow, here are two more versions to fool around with.
One, from a Portland Chef named Rachel Grossman (via Saveur). It is certainly more involved than the traditional method, has far more ingredients. Curious to give it a try to see why she goes in that direction.
And here’s another–which I’ve tried and recommend–from New York chef (co-owner of Dell’Anima and L’Artusi) Gabe Thompson.
[Photo Credit: Todd Coleman]
This is a most delicious dressing from April Bloomfield. Curiously strong but excellent. I had it on asparagus recently and it was lovely.
The recipe, from Bloomfield’s new book, is adapted here at Food 52.
[Photo Credit: James Ransom]
Serious Eats presents Tony Mantuano’s Pea, Bacon and Pecorino dish.
[Photo Credit: Nick Kindelsperger]
Chick-chick-chicken week continues with this dry-fried chicken recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop.
Via the good folks at Serious Eats.
[Photo Credit: Deliciousness and Serious Eats]
David Lebovitz on eating well:
-I “maximize” my calories, meaning that if I eat something, it should be good. Bad chocolate cake has the same number of calories as good chocolate cake, and is more satisfying as well so you’re not craving more. (It’s been said that M&M’s are specifically formulated to have just the right amount of chocolate in them to keep you craving more, which is why it’s hard to stop at half a bag.) Food writer Peter Kaminsky wrote about FPC, or “Flavors per calorie”, which is the same principle.
-I try to only eat “good stuff.” If I’m going to eat chocolate, I buy good chocolate. If I’m in the mood for ice cream, I’ll get a quality brand (or make it myself.) Save for York Peppermint Patties and M&M’s (and, of course, Planter’s Peanut Bars) – I don’t generally eat commercial candy bars. As for butter, aside from the stuff I buy for baking, I use it prudently and buy very good butter – and enjoy it immensely. Each and every smear.
-I eat everything and don’t demonize any food (except squid) – but there is nothing off-limits; I’ll eat potatoes cooked in duck fat, lardo, bacon, pizza, salted butter caramel, white chocolate, caramels, and potato chips. But I don’t eat them all day, everyday. If I have a copious lunch, dinner will be something lighter. And if I know I have a big dinner planned, I’ll make sure that lunch is on the lighter side.
Sense and sensibility from our man in Paris.
[Photo Credit: Chocoblog]
Rhubarb tiramisu at L’Artusi. Oh hell, yeah, worth the trip. It won’t be around long. Don’t sleep.
Here’s Emma Allen writing in the New Yorker about April Bloomfield’s recent book party.
[Photo Credit: Cherry Patter]
Yesterday gave this bit of tasty simplicity from the Queen. I used papperadelle instead of rigatoni cause I had it in the house and it worked just fine.
